Bicerin

Bicerin is a hot, non-alcoholic drink from Turin made of three layers in a small glass: thick, dark hot chocolate at the bottom, espresso in the middle and cold, lightly whipped (or liquid) cream on top. The name is Piedmontese for “small glass”, from the Italian bicchierino.

The custom is not to stir it. You drink through the cool cream into the hot coffee and chocolate, so the flavours mix in your mouth – sweet, bitter and creamy at once. It is rich enough to feel like a dessert, and is traditionally served with small biscuits.

The drink is closely tied to Caffè Al Bicerin, a tiny café opposite the Santuario della Consolata, which claims the original recipe and keeps its exact proportions secret. Today it is one of Turin’s symbols and you’ll find it in historic cafés across the city, especially in winter.

The bicerin descends from the bavarèisa, a sweet drink of coffee, chocolate and cream that was fashionable in Turin in the 18th century and was served in large glasses. At first the three ingredients were often served separately. Three combinations were known: pur e fiur (coffee and cream), pur e barba (coffee and chocolate) and ‘n poc ‘d tut (“a bit of everything”). The last one won out and became the bicerin, served layered in a small glass.

Caffè Al Bicerin was opened in 1763 by Giuseppe Dentis, a seller of acquacedrata (citron water), opposite the entrance to the Santuario della Consolata. The café was rebuilt in 1856 to a design by the architect Carlo Promis and still has its wooden panelling, mirrors and small marble tables. It credits itself with the drink’s original recipe, which it still keeps secret.

In the 19th century the bicerin became one of Turin’s emblems. Alexandre Dumas praised it, and Cavour, Nietzsche and Puccini are often named among its admirers. Umberto Eco featured the café in his 2010 novel Il cimitero di Praga (The Prague Cemetery).